Sample 8-Day TMB Itinerary for a Fastpacker

The trail begins at the Bellevue cable car station (1,800m) with panoramic views of the Chamonix Valley. If short of time a shortcut on this section is to take the cable car which takes hikers up to the Bellevue Plateau (1,800m) in 5 minutes. This eliminates approximately 800m of climbing. The cable car runs typically operates from early June through mid-September.

For those walking, the trail zig zags up the mountain side, through alpine meadows to Col de Voza (1,653m), passing a couple of restaurants and the rustic Refuge de Fioux where hikers can purchase refreshments and local products. Continuing down through pine forests, you'll cross several wooden bridges over mountain streams before reaching the village of Bionnassay, where the Glacier de Bionnassay and its dramatic icefall come into view. The trail follows the rushing Bionnassay torrent, with Mont Blanc (4,809m) increasingly dominating the skyline. Refreshments at Auberge de Bionnassay.

After Bionnassay the trail descends to cross the Bionnassay torrent via a suspension bridge. From there, it continues to descend through the trees to the hamlet of Le Champel. The path then winds through beautiful alpine meadows and forests, passing through small traditional hamlets including La Gruvaz and La Tresse Shortcut transport option: There is a Shuttle Bus that runs from Tresse Le Quy into Les Contamines (about 3.5km) - it then continues to Notre Dame de la Gorge. Timetable: https://www.lescontamines.com/summer/practical-informations/access-and-means-of-transport/shuttle-bus-services

Continuing along the trail, from Tresse Le Quy, you'll cross the Bon-Nant river before traversing the flanks of the valley with the stunning Dômes de Miage (3,673m) visible to the east. It then passes through the huddle of wooden buildings at Les Houches before a final crossing of Bon-Nant to reach Les Contamines-Montjoie, a charming alpine village with its old farmhouses, traditional chalets, small residences and with good facilities for hikers.

From Les Contamines-Montjoie an option is to take the bus to Notre Dame de la Gorge to save about 3km of walking. Otherwise, the trail follows the valley along a peaceful riverside path before reaching Notre Dame de la Gorge, a stunning 17th-century baroque chapel with remarkable architecture and painted interior. A potable water fountain is available outside the chapel. The trail heads into the trees and continues to the historic Pont Romain (Roman Bridge) which offers passage over the tumbling waters of the Bon-Nant river, and marks the start of an ancient paved Roman road that climbs steadily through a beautiful coniferous forest. Shortly after the bridge the forest opens up to reveal Refuge de Nant Borrant, a welcoming mountain hut offering refreshments and meals with a sunny terrace overlooking the valley.

The trail continues upwards following a gravel track through alpine meadows with bell-wearing cattle. Ascending alongside the Bon-Nant river there are public toilets with a water tap before reaching Refuge de la Balme (1,700m), the last refreshment point before Col du Bonhomme.

From Refuge de la Balme the trail ascends steadily through alpine meadows toward the imposing Aiguilles de la Pennaz.

After crossing several small streams, the path reaches Tumulus Plan des Dames, a conical stone cairn at 2,043m. The route steepens as it approaches Col du Bonhomme (2,329m), with some snow patches possible early in the season. At the col, exposed to mountain winds, hikers are rewarded with panoramic views before following a small trail that traverses the mountainside to reach Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,483m), marked by a large cairn. Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme sits just below the pass, providing welcome shelter with basic facilities.

From Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme the trail immediately begins its descent into the Vallée des Glaciers. The path zigzags steeply downward through grassy alpine slopes with panoramic views across the valley. As you descend, the terrain transitions from rocky high-mountain landscape to more verdant meadows dotted with wildflowers in summer.

After passing Chalets de Raja (farm buildings), the trail continues its steep descent, crossing several small streams along the way. The final section follows clear TMB markers down to Les Chapieux (1,549m), a small hamlet nestled in the valley. A potable water fountain is available in the hamlet centre.

For those staying in Bourg Saint Maurice there is a shuttle bus from Les Chapieux that takes 30 minutes. Timetable: https://en.lesarcs.com/move-around/bourg-saint-maurice-les-chapieux

During July and August, a shuttle bus service operates from Les Chapieux to Village des Glacier for those wanting to shorten the walk by about 5km. A few times a day a bus also continues to Les Mottets.

From Les Chapieux the trail follows the Vallée des Glaciers, gradually ascending through alpine pastures with views of the surrounding peaks, particularly the impressive Aiguille des Glaciers. After passing the small hamlet of La Ville des Glaciers with its traditional farm buildings, the path reaches Refuge des Mottets (1,864m), a beautifully renovated dairy farm at the foot of Col de la Seigne.

The trail from Refuge des Mottets marks the transition from France to Italy, it begins with a steady climb up a series of well-maintained switchbacks to reach Col de la Seigne (2,516m), the mountain pass marking the border. The col offers breathtaking 360-degree views. To the east, the full splendor of the Italian side of the Mont Blanc massif reveals itself, a dramatic wall of jagged peaks, glaciers, and the impressive Pyramides Calcaires.

From the col, the trail descends into the wide, flat Vallon de la Lée Blanche. The rocky slopes on the left side of the descent are excellent for spotting marmots, so keep your eyes peeled and camera ready. You'll pass a small stone building—a former Italian customs house now converted into an interesting mountain information centre with displays about local flora, fauna, and the history of the border.

The trail continues along the valley floor on relatively flat terrain, following an ancient Roman road. The landscape here is markedly different from the French side, more open and expansive, with the towering Mont Blanc massif visible to your left. After more walking, a final short climb leads to Rifugio Elisabetta Soldini, dramatically perched on a rocky spur overlooking the valley.

From Rifugio Elisabetta, a steep zigzag path descends to join the valley floor of Val Veny to rejoin the Roman road track which continues to Lac Combal, where the charming A-frame Cabane du Combal refuge offers a perfect coffee stop.

For those wanting a shortcut to Courmayeur continue to follow the valley floor to La Visaille, where frequent buses connect to Courmayeur. Otherwise the trail abandons the easy valley floor, climbing steadily onto a magnificent high trail along the southern slopes of Val Veny. This celebrated balcony route traverses through alpine meadows where purple gentians, yellow arnica, and pink alpine roses create a vibrant tapestry against emerald grass in summer.

The panoramic spectacle is breathtaking, Mont Blanc's gleaming white dome and jagged satellite peaks fill the northern horizon. The trail undulates considerably, demanding concentration as it crosses steep, sometimes exposed gullies before entering scattered larch forests near Col Chécrouit. Here, weathered wooden chalets and ski infrastructure signal the approach to civilization.

From Rifugio Maison Vieille, the path plunges through dense coniferous forest, the scent of pine filling the air as switchbacks negotiate the steep mountainside. It passes the cable car station at Plan Checrouit and continues to descend, eventually reaching Dolonne before crossing the rushing Dora Baltea to reach Courmayeur. This is a quintessential Italian mountain town where narrow cobblestone streets lead to elegant piazzas lined with gelaterias, cafes, and tempting restaurants.

Walking the descent from Rifugio Maison Vieille can be avoided by taking the Maison Vielle chairlift to Plan Checrouit, then Dolonne lift to Dolonne then a short walk into Courmayeur.

From Courmayeur the path climbs through residential streets before entering a pine forest where it zigzags upward, climbing over 800m, through numerous switchbacks. This shaded section provides welcome relief on hot summer days as the trail ascends steadily.

The forest gradually thins, revealing spectacular views of the Mont Blanc massif before arriving at Rifugio Bertone (1,989m). This welcoming mountain hut sits on a strategic perch with commanding panoramas of Courmayeur and the surrounding peaks, including the dramatic southern face of Mont Blanc and the Brenva Glacier.

Shortcut Transport Option: to skip this section and go to Rifugio Bonatti there is a Val Ferrret bus service (about every 30 mins) from Cormayeur that runs along the valley. Alight at stop 27 and then follow the path by the river to climb for 1.5km and ascend 300m to the Rifugio. The bus also continues to Chalet Val Ferret which is further up the trail. Bus info: https://aosta.arriva.it/courmayeur-mont-blanc/

From the refuge the trail briefly climbs before reaching a junction. Here, the route turns left and begins a pleasant, undulating journey eastward along a natural balcony high above the valley floor.

This relatively level trail crosses through varied terrain of alpine meadows, patches of larch forest, and open grasslands where wildflowers bloom in profusion during summer months. Spectacular views unfold across Val Ferret to the dramatic north faces of the Mont Blanc massif. The jagged peaks of Les Grandes Jorasses (4,208m) dominate the skyline, while the Glacier de Freboudze cascades down between towering rock walls. The trail passes through the pastures of Leuchey, Leche, and Arminaz before arriving at Rifugio Bonatti.

Leaving the refuge the trail continues its eastward journey along the high balcony path, offering continuous panoramic views of the Mont Blanc massif. After traversing several alpine meadows, the route makes a sharp left turn and begins a steep descent toward the valley floor.

The path zigzags downward through alpine meadows and scattered larch trees. Mountain streams cross the trail at several points, creating small cascades as they tumble toward the valley. The descent eventually reaches the flat valley floor where Chalet Val Ferret sits beside the road, offering welcome refreshments.

From Chalet Val Ferret the trail crosses a bridge over the Dora de Ferret river and immediately begins climbing through alpine meadows. The path follows the valley flank, crossing several small streams while offering expanding panoramic views of Val Ferret. After steady climbing, the final approach reaches Rifugio Elena, a modern refuge dramatically positioned beneath the spectacular Pre de Bard Glacier.

From the refuge the trail climbs steadily upward through alpine meadows toward Grand Col Ferret. The route ascends in well-graded switchbacks, with the impressive Pre de Bard Glacier becoming increasingly visible behind as elevation is gained. The surrounding landscape transforms gradually from green meadows to a more barren, rocky terrain near the summit. Hikers are rewarded with expanding views across the entire Italian Val Ferret with each step upward.

Grand Col Ferret (2,537m) is the highest point on the route and the border between Italy and Switzerland. Here, a stark contrast in landscapes presents itself, behind lies the dramatic, rugged Italian side with its jagged peaks and glaciers, while ahead stretches the gentler, rolling landscape of the Swiss Val Ferret. A stone border marker and often a fluttering Swiss flag mark this significant transition point.

From the col, the trail descends gradually on the Swiss side, crossing high alpine pastures where wildflowers bloom in summer. The path follows grassy slopes with panoramic views toward the villages below, eventually reaching Alpage de la Peule (1,970m), a traditional working dairy farm. This rustic stone building serves as both mountain refuge and cheese-making facility, where visitors can enjoy local dairy products while watching cheese production during summer months.

The trail continues its descent through beautiful Swiss alpine meadows. The path follows the upper reaches of Val Ferret, offering magnificent views of the surrounding mountains. After passing through the small settlement of Ferret with its traditional wooden chalets, the route continues along a pleasant forest track beside the La Dranse de Ferret river.

Eventually the trail opens into a valley where La Fouly (1,600m) nestles among pine forests, a charming Swiss mountain village with traditional wooden chalets, food store, and refreshment options.

(Transport option if needed: Bus 272 runs from La Fouly to Orsières. From Orsières bus 271 runs to Champex Lac).

The trail from La Fouly continues with a gentle descent through the Swiss Val Ferret. The route follows the western bank of the La Dranse de Ferret river, initially passing through pine forests before opening into lush alpine meadows dotted with traditional wooden chalets. The path passes the small hamlet of Praz de Fort, where stone and timber barns showcase traditional Swiss alpine architecture.

The route continues downhill through tranquil farmland with views of the surrounding mountains partially visible above the valley walls. After crossing the Dranse de Ferret on a wooden footbridge, the trail passes through the picturesque hamlet of Les Arlaches, notable for its intricately interlaced wooden roofs and decorative stone arrangements. These traditional buildings, some dating back several centuries, offer a glimpse into historic Swiss mountain life.

The path eventually reaches Issert (1,055m), a small settlement with bus stop and next to it the Café du châtelet which is popular as a lunch stop.

From Issert, those wishing to bypass the upcoming climb to Champex-Lac can access public transportation. Bus 272 connects Issert to Orsières, the region's main transport hub approximately 3.5km away. From Orsières, connections are available to Champex-Lac (bus 271).

From Issert the trail crosses the Torrent du Darbellay before beginning its steady climb through dense pine and larch forest. The ascent is consistent and moderately demanding, gaining over 400m of elevation as the path zigzags upward through the cool shade of the trees.

Wooden carvings of forest creatures appear among the trees, adding whimsical touches to the journey.

As the forest gradually thins, the trail emerges at the edge of Champex-Lac (1,470m), a charming resort village clustered around its small alpine lake. Often called "Little Canada" for its scenic resemblance to Canadian landscapes, the village provides numerous accommodation options, restaurants, and services.

From Champex-Lac the trail soon leaves the road onto a forest path. The route winds through pine forests, gradually ascending alongside a rushing mountain stream. After several kilometres of steady climbing, the path emerges from the trees at Plan de l'Au, a scenic plateau with mountain views.

From here, the trail climbs more steeply through alpine pastures toward Alpage de Bovine, a working farm situated on a high mountain meadow. Famous for its chocolate cake and other homemade treats, the rustic chalet provides food with panoramic views across the Rhône Valley toward Martigny.

The path continues to climb gently to reach Porte à l'O (2,049m), the highest point of this section. From here, the trail begins a long, steady descent to reach Col de la Forclaz, where a small hotel offers refreshments. The final section descends steeply through forest to the village of Trient (1,280m), recognizable by its distinctive pink church.

The trail from Trient climbs steadily through pine forests with occasional views back to Trient Glacier. After crossing several mountain streams via wooden bridges, you'll emerge above the treeline where alpine meadows offer sweeping panoramas.

The terrain becomes progressively steeper with some rocky sections before reaching Col de Balme (2,191m), marking the French-Swiss border. The refuge sits just below the pass. A potable water fountain is available outside the refuge. From the col, enjoy spectacular views of Mont Blanc massif and Chamonix Valley.

From Col de Balme the trail traverses an exposed alpine ridgeline toward Aiguillettes des Posettes (2,201m). This ridgeline offers spectacular panoramic views of Mont Blanc massif on one side and Swiss Valais peaks on the other. Alpine wildflowers carpet the slopes in summer, with marmots frequently spotted among the rocks.

The descent follows the crest with relatively gentle slopes. As you drop below the treeline, the terrain transitions dramatically into dense larch forest where the trail narrows and zigzags down through a series of short, steep switchbacks. Several small mountain streams are crossed via wooden footbridges.

To avoid the exposed Aiguillettes des Posettes ridge it is possible to walk down the valley to Le Tour and Montroc-Le-Plane, or take the Le Tour-Charamillion chair lift (seasonal) from just below Col de Balme which descends to Le Tour village.

The TMB trail continues down to the road at at the small settlement of Tré le Champs where Auberge la Boerne is 100m off route.

The trail now climbs through forest before emerging at the base of Aiguillette d'Argentière. Here begins the ladder section - a series of metal ladders with fixed handrails and platforms bolted to the rock face. The ladders are not continuous but interspersed with sections of normal trail. The ladders are of varying heights, with the longest being approximately 25 feet. -- After reaching Tête aux Vents (marked by a large cairn), the trail continues and includes another set of ladders, though they are generally less exposed than the first ladder section. The final climb brings you to Refuge du Lac Blanc which and serves food and drinks. Cash payment only is accepted. The lake provides exceptional views of the Mont Blanc massif. -- For those who prefer to avoid the section of ladders between Aiguillette d'Argentière and Tête aux Vents, a longer route starts on the road north of Tre-le-Champs, at the Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve Information centre at Col des Montets. The trail can also be picked up at the car park about 200m north of Tre-le-Champs. This will roughly add 1-3 hours of walking. -- If wanting to also miss out the section to Lac Blanc there is an alternative marked path directly to La Flégère from Tête aux Vents.

From the refuge the trail descends on a well maintained trail traversing rocky alpine terrain with occasional wooden planking over wet areas. Several small tarns dot the landscape along the way, providing additional photo opportunities with Mont Blanc reflected in their waters.

The path gradient eases and maintains a relatively gentle descent as it follows the contours of the mountainside. Throughout this stretch, the panoramic views of the Mont Blanc massif remain consistently impressive, with the Mer de Glace glacier and Aiguilles de Chamonix clearly visible across the valley.

The route is clearly marked and eventually brings you to Refuge de La Flégère (1,877m).

For those needing to descend into the valley a gondola station is located adjacent to the refuge which connect to Les Praz-de-Chamonix. Last departure at 5pm or 6pm depending on dates. Further info: https://en.chamonix.com/activities/practical-information-about-the-lifts/flegere-gondola-and-index-lift

The trail from Refuge de La Flégère initially heads southwest along the Grand Balcon Sud toward Le Brévent. The path climbs gradually through alpine terrain with dwarf vegetation and rocky outcrops, offering continuous panoramic views of the Mont Blanc massif across the Chamonix Valley.

The trail passes behind the Altitude 2000 chalet-restaurant before climbing steeply to Col du Brévent (2,368m). The gradient then eases before another climb continues to the summit of Le Brévent (2,525m), which has a panoramic terrace and water point. After descending through scree and traversing a stark mineral landscape, you'll reach Refuge de Bellachat (2,150m). This small, rustic mountain hut offers refreshments and has a terrace with direct views of Mont Blanc.

Leaving the refuge the trail quickly starts to descend and turns into a zigzag path that enters the forest. The trail crosses several small streams, including the Torrent des Lapaz, before reaching a more established forest path. The descent is consistently steep in sections but well-maintained with switchbacks to ease the gradient.

As the trail approaches Les Houches the path continues around a wildlife park and descends to a parking area. From here, the trail connects to a path leading to the Christ-Roi statue (a 25-meter tall statue reminiscent of Rio's Christ the Redeemer) before the final descent into Les Houches and the end of your remarkable Tour du Mont Blanc journey.